Don’t be intimidated by fresh mushrooms. They are prized for their flavor and versatility.
Look for firm mushrooms that are free of soft spots or mold. Wash them just before using them but be sure to store them unwashed. Never submerge in water to wash them because mushrooms absorb like a sponge and become mushy. Wipe with moist paper towels. Some prefer to clean them with a soft-bristled mushroom brush. If extremely dirty, they can be very briefly dunked into cold water and wiped dry.These are many varieties, but to make it easy, the following recipes showcase easy-to-find mushrooms: white button mushrooms, portobellos, cremini mushrooms (immature portobello mushrooms), and “baby bellas” (a label used to describe more mature cremini that are bigger than standard cremini but not as big as portobellos). If your source stocks shiitake mushrooms, they are delicious and have an appealing meaty taste.
Mushroom Bourguignon
This scrumptious dish has a velvety sauce that is packed with flavor. It’s so good, I don’t think you will miss the meat used in a classic Beef Bourguignon. I like to serve it over polenta, but butter noodles or mashed potatoes are good too. Leave the portobello mushrooms gills intact; they enhance the stew’s color and flavor.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
4 3/4 cups water, divided use
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
2 1/2 pounds fresh portobello mushroom caps, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
2 carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 large shallot, chopped
4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry red wine, divided use, see cook’s notes
2 tablespoons white miso
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon tomato paste
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed
1 cup frozen pearl onions, thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
For servings: polenta, buttered noodles, or mashed potatoes
Cook’s notes: Use a good-quality light- to medium-body red wine, such as Pinot Noir or Grenache.
DIRECTIONS
1. Add 1/4 cup water and 2 tablespoons oil to Dutch oven and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Add portobello mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their moisture, about 10 minutes.
2. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until pot is dry and dark fond forms (browned bits), 10 to 12 minutes longer. Transfer mushrooms to bowl. Add carrots, shallot, and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pot and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables start to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook for 30 seconds. Whisk in 1 cup wine.
3. Add miso, soy sauce, tomato paste, and remaining 4 1/2 cups water and whisk to combine. Add thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and porcini mushrooms; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain vigorous simmer and cook, stirring occasionally and scraping bottom of pot to loosen any browned bits, until sauce is reduced and has consistency of heavy cream, about 25 minutes.
4. Strain sauce through fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. You should have 2 cups sauce. (If you have more, return sauce to pot and continue to cook over medium heat until reduced. If you have less, add enough water to yield 2 cups.) Return sauce to pot. Stir in onions, reserved portobello mushrooms, and remaining 2 tablespoons wine. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve over polenta, buttered noodles, or mashed potatoes.
Source: America’s Test Kitchen
Marinated Mushroom Salad
Marinated mushroom salad is delightfully adaptable. You can serve it as directed or spoon it over clean baby arugula or mixed baby greens. It is delicious as a busy weeknight side dish or as part of a more elaborate company menu.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 sprig fresh thyme leaves, minced or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, see cook’s notes
Optional: Pinch dried red pepper flakes
1 3/4 pounds clean fresh mushrooms, cremini or common white, sliced
Garnish: About 3 ounces crumbled feta cheese or shaved pecorino cheese or shaved Parmesan cheese
Cook’s notes: Instead of salt, I like to use seasoned salt to taste, such as Lawry’s or Spike.
DIRECTIONS
1. In a large nonreactive bowl, such as glass or ceramic, combine, oil, vinegars, garlic, thyme, parsley, salt, pepper and, if using, a pinch of dried red pepper flakes; stir to combine. Add mushrooms and toss to coat mushrooms.
2. Marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature or cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days.
3. Spoon onto salad plates and top with crumbled or shaved cheese of choice.
Marneau’s Mushroom Risotto
Florent Marneau, executive chef/owner of Marche Moderne in Newport Coast, shared his recipe for mushroom risotto with me many years ago. It remains one of my favorite risotto recipes. I’ve adapted it for home use. His rendition uses fresh porcini mushrooms, but any fresh mushroom can be substituted. Cremini and/or shiitake are what I often use. Marneau roasts the porcini mushrooms in his wood-fired oven. Most home cooks aren’t lucky enough to have such a splendid oven, so the directions here call for sautéing them in a skillet on top of the stove. And, yes, shaved truffles are an optional garnish.
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
About 5 cups vegetable broth, exact amount varies
Mushrooms:
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 pound halved or quartered fresh porcini mushrooms (another variety of fresh mushroom can be substituted, such as cremini and/or shiitake, sliced or quartered)
2 or 3 small leeks, roots trimmed, white and light green portion only, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Risotto:
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoon finely chopped white onion
2 cups Arborio rice
1 generous tablespoon mascarpone
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tablespoon finely chopped green onion, white and light green portion
1 tablespoon whipping cream, a little more if needed for creamy consistency
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Optional garnish: Shaved fresh black truffle
Optional garnish: Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano
Garnish: Small drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil
DIRECTIONS
1. Place broth in saucepan; place on low heat. It is helpful to place a 1/2-cup ladle in or next to pan.
2. Prepare mushrooms: In a large, deep skillet melt butter on medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and cook until tender and nicely browned, about 7 to 10 minutes (depending on size), stirring occasionally (reduce heat to low after mushrooms have browned nicely on one side). Add sliced baby leeks; cook an additional 2 to 4 minutes, until lightly browned and tender. Stir in chopped garlic; cook until fragrant but not browned, about 30 seconds. Season to taste. Set aside.
3. Prepare risotto: In a 6-quart saucepan or Dutch oven, melt butter on medium heat. Add onion and stir to coat. Cook onions until soft, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat. Add 1/2 cup warm broth and, stirring constantly, cook until almost all of liquid disappears. Add another 1/2 cup warm broth and stir constantly until almost all of liquid disappears. Repeat process, adding 1/2 cup broth at a time and stirring constantly until all broth has been added (and cooked until liquid disappears); do this until only 1/2 cup broth remains. Add last 1/2 cup broth and cook, stirring, until about 2/3 of the liquid disappears. Rice should be tender, but with a little resistance in the center. Add mascarpone and stir until thoroughly incorporated. Stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano and green onions. When mixture is a good consistency, neither too wet nor too dry, stir in whipping cream, salt and pepper.
4. Divide risotto between 4 large, shallow bowls. Place the mushroom-mixture on top or toss them in. If desired, garnish with shaved Parmesan. If using truffles, add shaved truffle. Drizzle with a tiny bit of olive oil and serve.
Source: Executive Chef-Owner Florent Marneau, Marche Moderne, Newport Coast
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